Paul Freeman feels most at home on the waters of the St. Lawrence Seaway and the Ottawa River.
But this second home is not a cottage. It’s a boat, modelled after the riverboats of the early 1900s.
Since 2023, Freeman has been a regular aboard The Canadian Empress, the signature ship operated by St. Lawrence Cruise Lines. He’s taken 10 trips and has six scheduled for 2026.
Freeman was smart to book early. The family-owned cruise line has seen strong interest from Canadians opting to travel at home while the trade war with the U.S. continues.
The conflict is “bringing [Canadians] closer together,” said Freeman.
But many Americans travel with the company too. In 2025, about 40 per cent of its passengers were Americans.
However, once the cruise begins, politics cease to matter.
Passengers “leave politics at home,” said Freeman, noting many of his American cruisemates are also hurting and frustrated by the economic turmoil.
“Most Americans are up here just to relax, get away from the craziness they have back home, and just enjoy the trip and make a good trip of it,” said Freeman.
And they, like previous passengers, always do.
Meaningful connections
Founded in 1981, St. Lawrence Cruise Lines has always sought to help its passengers learn more about the history of the St. Lawrence River and grow in their appreciation for it.
The company runs overnight cruises along the St. Lawrence and Ottawa Rivers, and cruises highlight the St. Lawrence Seaway and Thousand Islands.
Cruises run from four to seven nights, and take passengers from Kingston to Ottawa, Montreal or Quebec City. These gentle river cruises reduce the risk of seasickness, and allow passengers to see more than they would on the two- or three-hour day cruises popular in the area.
The Canadian Empress accommodates just 64 passengers per trip, allowing those on board to form meaningful connections. At 108 feet long, it is large enough for multi-day cruises, but also small enough to dock at many of the small port towns on the river — something the larger ships cannot do.
But for the passengers of The Canadian Empress, the river is not just a way to get to the next attraction. It is the attraction.
“Our passengers fill out comment cards at the end of each cruise, and the majority tell us that the number one reason for cruising is the river itself,” said Daniel Beals, the company’s vice-president.
“The river is the number one attraction and our job is to provide the perfect setting to appreciate the beauty of the river.”
The ship docks at night, which means passengers never miss the sights of the river while sleeping.
The evenings also feature entertainment on the ship, while day times include excursions to museums and notable historic sites.
“Canada is a huge country, and most people from one side of the country to the other have not been in every province,” said Trevor Houle, the company’s cruise director.
“Many, many people have not been on the St. Lawrence River or the Ottawa River. Why go take a tour in Europe when you haven’t even seen your own country?”
‘Like going to the cottage’
For Viktor Kaczkowski, the cruise’s quality matches — if not exceeds — that of larger ships.
Kaczkowski gave tours to the cruise passengers at the Brockville Museum for years before he and his husband booked a cruise in 2022. He says he found a place of comfort on The Canadian Empress.
“It’s like going to the cottage for the weekend,” he said.
Kaczkowski also regularly gives historical talks to the cruise passengers and is available to answer their questions about the geography and history of the area. He particularly enjoys helping passengers identify the different boats that sail the seaway.
“Ships have distinct personalities,” he said. “They’re like people. They have stories to tell.”
He compares The Canadian Empress to Maggie Smith from the show Downton Abbey — a reminder of a bygone era that may seem “quirky,” but is easy to love.
Houle says he “never gets tired of the river,” even after more than a decade directing cruises.
“Every year, the land is different,” he said.
Houle first joined the company in 1982, for its second season — after a love-at-first-sight moment. He had been running day tours for other boats throughout Kingston, and can still recall seeing The Canadian Empress across the dock. He knew it was where he wanted to be, he says. He could see more of the water, and most importantly, get to know the passengers.
Today, as its cruise director, Houle is responsible for ensuring guests have the best experience possible, which includes co-ordinating the day trips and evening entertainment.
On some occasions, he has become the entertainment.
Houle, who studied music and theatre at Queen’s University, regularly sings to passengers acapella, often when they do not expect it. He has sung for the passengers while they wait in line at museums.
“I don’t want them to remember this museum because we had to wait for them to let us in,” he said. “I want them to say, ‘Remember the fur trade museum when Trevor sang that song?’”
Beals says the trip is, for many passengers, a “bucket list item,” with prices ranging from $2,230 to $5,000 a person.
But Paul Freeman, one of The Canadian Empress’ repeat guests, says he keeps coming back because the cruise feels like home.
In January, Freeman moved from his home in Hamilton, Ont., to an independent retirement living community in Kingston. At 76, the widower says he “wanted to spread [his] wings.”
But he admits the fact that St. Lawrence Cruise Line is based in Kingston is part of the appeal. He will not have to travel far to get to the dock.
And even when Freeman is not on a cruise, he intends to stop by the ship.
“I’m like the grandpa of the ship,” he said.
St. Lawrence Cruise Lines is currently booking for the 2026 cruising season. To learn more about their cruises, visit www.stlawrencecruiselines.com or call 1-800-267-7868 to request a free travel guide.
